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ギガル3兄弟の中では最も女性的なワイン「ムーリンヌ」!
初代エティエンヌがアンピュイの町に社屋を構えたのは遡ること、1945年。息子マルセルの代になり、同社の名声のもととなるコート・ロティの区画の数々を手に入れます。そして1980年代の半ば、かつてエティエンヌが働いていたコート・ロティの老舗ヴィダル・フルーリィ社、1990年代後半にはサン・ジョゼフの名ドメーヌ、ローヌ北部のジャン・ルイ・グリッパやド・ヴァルーイを、最近もコート・ロティもドメーヌ・ド・ボンズリーヌを取得しています。
現在では総面積55haに達する、名実ともにローヌを代表する生産者となっています。ギガル社の名声を高めているのは、コート・ロティの3つのプレスティージュ・キュヴェ、ラ・ムーリーヌ、ラ・ランドンヌ、そしてラ・トゥルク別名ギガル御三家と呼ばれています。
「コート・ロティ ラ・ムーリンヌ」は、ギガル社が最初に手に入れた自社畑で、初ヴィンテージは1966年。コート・ブロンドの1haから生まれる5000本ほどワインが、今日ある同社の名声の基となった。ランドンヌ、テュルクに較べるとエレガントなタイプ。
樹齢75年の古木を使用。ステンレスタンクを用い、ルモンタージュをしながら4週間の醸し発酵。新樽100%で40ヶ月の熟成。深みのあるルビー色。よく熟した赤い果実に、スミレを思わせるフローラルなアロマ。凝縮感たっぷりの味わいながらフィネスが感じられる。3兄弟の中では最も女性的。
■テクニカル情報■
醸造・栽培、除梗の割合:75%、発酵(樽/タンク):ステンレスタンク、発酵温度:最高33度、発酵期間:25日間、使用酵母:天然酵母、熟成(樽【新樽率】/タンク):100%、熟成期間:42ヵ月、マロラクティック発酵の有無:Yes、瓶詰め時のフィルターの有無:No、所有面積:1ha、土壌:片麻岩、シリカ、石灰質と黄土の土壌、ぶどう品種(セパージュ):Syrah 89%, Viognier 11%、ぶどうの仕立て:ギュイヨ・サンプル・コート・ロティ、ゴブレ、平均樹齢:90年、密植度:10000本/ha、平均年間生産量(本数):5000本、収穫量:35hl/ha、収穫方法:手摘み、農法:リュット・レゾネ、BIO認証団体:No
E.GUIGAL COTE ROTIE LA MOULINE
Eギガル ギガル コート・ロティ ラ・ムーリンヌ
生産地:フランス ローヌ コート・ロティ
原産地呼称:AOC. COTE ROTIE
ぶどう品種:シラー、ヴィオニエ
味わい:赤ワイン 辛口 フルボディ
ワインアドヴォケイト:96+ ポイント
The Wine Advocate RP 96+ Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck Release Price: NA Drink Date: 2017 - 2032
A big step up, the 2007 Cote Rotie la Mouline boasts serious richness and depth, with a still tight, focused and youthful profile that’s begging for another couple of years in the cellar. Giving up plenty of smoked earth, toast, dried flowers, graphite, chocolate and hints of bacon fat, it’s a masculine version of this cuvee that should start to open up in another 3-4 years, and drink beautifully through 2032.
One of the reference point estates for top quality wines in the world today, the family run Guigal operation was created in 1946 by Etienne Guigal. Today, Etienne’s son, Marcel, and his son Philippe, are firmly in control here, and are without a doubt producing some of the most singular, sought after wines in the world. Due to the size of this tasting, I’ll keep my comments short, but the incredible quality coming from this operation is astounding, and a tasting here is always one of the highlights of any trip through the region. Furthermore, while a lot is said about the extended oak aging regime here, I don’t know anyone who tastes mature examples of these wines on a regular basis that still has any doubts about the genius going on here. In short, these single vineyard (and their blends as well) Cote Roties are some of the greatest wines money can buy. For this tasting (which, with the Guigals, is always a large one!), we focused on their Saint Joseph Vignes des Hospice release, and then three of their Cote Roties, starting with the classic Brune et Blonde, then the Chateau d’Ampuis, and finishing with their single vineyard La Mouline.
Looking first at their Saint Joseph Vignes des Hospices release, it comes all from the incredibly steep (and picturesque) vineyard perched just above the town of Tournon. The exposure here (which is critical for Saint Joseph as the more southern facing the plot, the warmer the site is) is mostly east facing and the soils are pure granite (identical to the decomposed granite found in the Les Bessards lieu-dit on Hermitage Hills). Compared to the Saint Joseph lieu-dit, which has a slightly more southern exposure, harvest here is always 5-7 days later.
Moving north to Cote Rotie, the Guigal’s Brune et Blonde is their entry level release that comes from a mix of vineyards, most of which are estate. It drinks beautifully on release and has a solid 15-20 years of longevity in top vintages.
Stepping up over the Brune et Blonde, the Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis is named after the Chateau d’Ampuis estate (which lies in the town of Ampuis, right up along the Rhone River, and was purchased by the Guigal’s in 1995) and is a blend of their top estate vineyards. Coming from La Garde, Le Clos, Grande-Plantee, Pommiere, Pavillon, Le Moulin and La Viria, it spends close to four years in new French oak (handled just like the single vineyard releases) and there’s roughly 30,000 bottles produced in each vintage. While the single vineyard releases get all the buzz, this is isn’t far behind in quality, especially in recent vintages, and can represent an incredible value.
We finished the tasting with a vertical of La Mouline. One of the three single vineyard Cote Roties produced, this cuvee comes all from the La Mouline lieu-dit that’s located in the more western (close to the middle actually) side of appellation. For simplicities sake, you could say it’s in the Cote Blonde part of the region, but in reality, Cote Rotie is much more complex and diverse. Due to its exposure, this vineyard is always the first of the three single vineyards to be harvest, and also contains some of the oldest vines on the estate. Fermented using pump overs (as opposed to punch downs for the La Torque and submersion cap on the La Landonne), it’s cofermented with varying degrees of Viognier, which in most vintages, ends up being around 10% of the blend. Like the Chateau d’Ampuis and the other two single vineyard releases, it sees close to four years in 100% new French oak, of which every trace integrates after a few years in bottle. It’s always the most approachable of the single vineyard releases, and is ready to drink at an earlier stage. For example, the 1999 La Mouline is gloriously mature, while the 1989 La Torque is still an infant. Nevertheless, as the 1978 reviewed here attests to, it has no problem evolving for decades (although I don’t recommend holding bottles that long). In short, this was a flight of Cote Roties I’ll not forget anytime soon! Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000 Published: Aug 28, 2014
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